FAQ
Q: How can I determine the number of gallons in my pool?
A: First, you must determine the AVERAGE DEPTH of your swimming pool. To do this, add the deepest end of your pool (in feet) to the shallowest end of your pool and divide the sum by 2. This number is the AVERAGE DEPTH and will be used in one of the following equations to determine the total gallons of your swimming pool. Use the equation that best describes your pool:
· RECTANGULAR OR SQUARE:
Length (in feet) x Width (in feet) x Average Depth x 7.5 = TOTAL GALLONS
· CIRCULAR:
Diameter (in feet) x Diameter x Average Depth x 5.9 = TOTAL GALLONS
· OVAL:
Long Diameter (in feet) x Short Diameter (in feet) x Average Depth x 5.9 = TOTAL GALLONS
Q: How often do I need to run my filter?
A: The filter is the most important component in keeping your swimming pool clean. Ideally, a filter should run ALL THE TIME for maximum circulation and debris removal. A minimum of 8 hours a day is highly recommended.
Q: When should I vacuum the pool's bottom?
A: The swimming pool walls and bottom should be brushed and vacuumed weekly to remove dirt and other sediments that have not been filtered out.
Q: What is pH and how does it affect my pool water?
A: pH is the most important factor controlling water balance. If pH is too high (above 7.8 ppm), cloudy water will result. If pH is too low (below 7.2 ppm), corrosion of metallic pipes, etched plaster and rapid loss of chlorine residual and irritation to swimmers may result.
Q: What affects the pH level in my pool?
A: Alkalinity, sun, rain and bather load all affect pH levels. It is important to maintain proper pH levels to prevent loss of chlorine and irritation to swimmers.
Q: What causes algae and how can I get rid of it?
A: Algae are microscopic aquatic plants which are introduced to the swimming pool water from the atmosphere. Algae growth is usually established during times when the disinfectant level or algaecide content in the water is low or neglected. There are different types of algae, each with a different treatment:
· GREEN ALGAE: most common, identified by cloudy green water appearance.
TREATMENT: Lower pH to at least 7.0 ppm, shock pool at a rate of 1 pound per 10,000 gallons. Add Algaecide or Algaecide 50 (for plaster pools) according to bottle directions.
· MUSTARD ALGAE: difficult to control, identified by a cloudy greenish-yellow water color.
TREATMENT: Lower pH to at least 7.0 ppm, shock pool at a rate of 1 pound per 10,000 gallons. Add Yellow Out according to bottle directions.
· BLACK ALGAE: very dark, green slippery patches clinging to walls and floors.
TREATMENT: First, brush heavy algae spots, lower pH to at least 7.0 ppm, shock pool at rate of 1 pound per 10,000 gallons. Add In The Swim® Black Algaecide according to bottle directions.
· PINK ALGAE: frequently called "red" algae, this is actually a bacteria that comes from salt water or pools sanitized with biguianides. The best prevention is to thoroughly wash with bleach all items that have come in contact with salt water before allowing them in your pool area.
TREATMENT: Lower pH to at lest 7.0 ppm, shock pool at rate of 1 pound per 10,000 gallons until bacteria disappears.
Q: What is backwashing and why is it necessary?
A: Backwashing is the process which cleans sand filters. The first step in backwashing is to unplug power to the motor. Then, turn the handle on the top of the valve from "filter" to "backwash." This reverses the flow of water and instead of spraying water over the sand, it pushes water down the standpipe, which forces the sand to be flooded with water, essentially lifting all debris out of the sand and filter. During this process, you should watch the sightglass carefully; you will first notice dirty water in the sightglass, then, after about 3-4 minutes, the water should be clean. This means that all the debris is out of the tank. Then, unplug the filter, rotate the handle from "backwash" to "rinse." Allow water to circulate approximately one to two minutes. This will clean all debris out of your valve. Then, rotate handle from "rinse" to "filter" and you're on your way! Keep in mind that sand filters rely on pressure gauges to notify you when the tank should be cleaned. It is a good idea to change your pressure gauge once per year.
Q: What does "shocking" do to my pool?
A: "Shocking" means super-chlorinating. This process helps to rejuvenate pool water by burning off chloramines or bromamines, which are sanitized, or "dead" particles. This helps to kill bacteria and algae, which cause your pool water to become cloudy. You should shock your swimming pool one time per week, or more often during periods of heavy bather use or when combined chlorine is .7 ppm.
Q: How often should I clean my filter?
A: It depends on what kind of filter you have. Sand filters should be cleaned (backwashed) approximately every 10 to 14 days, check the pressure gauge to be sure. D.E. (diatomaceous earth) filters need to be "bumped" every 10 to 17 days, and the filter should be cleaned approximately once per month. Cartridges in cartridge filters should be hosed off about once per week.
Q: How do I select a filter type, what are the advantages and disadvantages of each?
A: · SAND: This is the most common filter and it's very easy to use, however backwashing, which is necessary to clean the sand in the filter, uses a lot of chlorinated water, which essentially wastes the chlorine.
· D.E.: This filter provides the best water quality, however, it is the most difficult filter to use and requires a lot of attention.
· CARTRIDGE: This is the most user-friendly filter and provides water clarity close to that of a D.E. filter, however the replacement cartridges for the filter are expensive and can tear easily.
Q: When should I buy a replacement motor versus an entirely new pump?
A: If your pump is 1 to 5 years old, it is more efficient to buy a replacement motor. When buying a replacement motor, you should take the following factors into consideration: horsepower, shaft style and profile (round or square). However, if your pump is more than 5 years old, it is better to just replace the pump. SPE features a variety of "full rated" replacement swimming pool motors that will save you money if replacing the motor is an option for you!
Q: How do you sanitize/prepare fill water?
A: It is necessary to remove all metals, balance the pH, alkalinity and calcium levels, introduce algaecide and shock products, and most importantly, run your filter and chlorinator when pool is filled.
Q: What is basic maintenance for spa water?
A: Spa care is very similar to pool water care - maintaining pH and sanitizer levels is most important. Rather than chlorine, the sanitizer that should be used in spas is bromine. Maintain your pH, alkalinity and calcium levels as suggested. Be sure to remove metals on a regular basis!
Q: How large should my pump system be for my pool?
A: · 17" System for up to 17,000 gallons.
· 19" System for up to 21,000 gallons.
· 23" System for up to 30,000 gallons.
· 30" System for up to 40,000 gallons.
Q: How large a heater would I need to effectively heat my pool?
A: There are two types of pool heaters available: conventional heaters and solar heaters. Generally, the number of square feet determines the best size heater:
CONVENTIONAL HEATERS
up to 450 sq. ft. - 125,000 BTU
450-600 sq. ft. - 175,000 BTU
600-800 sq. ft. - 250,000 BTU
800-1000 sq. ft.- 325,000 BTU
1000-1200 sq. ft. - 400,000 BTU
SOLAR HEATERS
The solar heating system pack is a standard size and comes complete with two 4'x10' solar panels. To customize the heater for your pool, you can purchase individual solar panels in a quantity so that the surface area of the panels is equal to half the surface area of your pool.
Q: My Pool Leaks! What do I need to do?
A: First, don’t be fooled by evaporation which can sometimes seem like a leak. It’s difficult to pinpoint the amount you can expect to lose through evaporation, but anything more than ¼” a day should be cause for concern.A suction leak loses more water when the pump is off and sucks air when the pump is on (air bubbles will come from the returns). A pressure leak loses more water when the pump is running and depending on the size of the leak will go from a drip to complete saturation of the affected area.
Leaks can also be caused by anything else in the pool. For example, if you have a light, this should be closely examined. In a vinyl liner pool, any small tear can be very difficult to diagnose. A good start would be to turn the pump off and put winter plugs in all skimmers and returns and make note of the water level. Monitor the water level from day to day to determine if the level stays or drops. If the water level holds, one of those plugged lines is usually the problem. If not, the problem is elsewhere. Look at your light(s), main drain, vacuum and/or pool cleaner line (if applicable) and around fiberglass steps in a vinyl pool. If your backwash line is directly plumbed to a drywell, check to see if your multiport may be leaking. This is totally unseen and often overlooked.
Many pool professionals are skilled and experienced in pool leak detection and should be called if the problem is not easily detected.
Q: Air Bubbles:
A: Air bubbles coming back through your return fittings is a sure sign of a suction leak. All the plumbing from the pump strainer forward to the pool is the suction side. The problem might be as simple as the strainer cover gasket or o-ring or be as complicated as a split in the pipe underground or a fitting failure. Start with what you can easily check. If you have valves on your skimmers and/or main drain, try closing one at a time to isolate a skimmer or main drain and see if the bubbles stop. If the bubbles stop during that test, the skimmer or main drain that you closed to cause the bubbles to stop is the source of the problem. Once the line causing the problem is isolated, that line can be pressure tested to try to pinpoint the problem. Then that area can be dug up and the repair made.
Q: My Pump keeps losing its prime!
A: A pump that loses its prime, while not running, indicates an air leak somewhere in the system. If no air bubbles are returning to the pool through the return lines, the leak is likely on the “pressure side” or return side of the system. The return side is everything from the pumps discharge port through the filter and back to the pool. Any leak on the pressure side of a system shows itself by dripping water. Fix all leaky pipes and fittings and the prime loss will stop.
Q: How do I repair my heater?
A: It is our opinion that all heater-related problems should only be repaired by a licensed professional. And who is familiar with these types of products. The possibility of serious injury exists. Your pool/spa heater should never by touched by anyone other then a trained professional.
Q: What are the common water problems?
A: All pool water clarity and sanitation questions and condition must start with a quality water test. This test can be done by either your local pool professional or by yourself if you have a test kit that performs several basic tests, including Free Chlorine, pH, Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness. An alternative to a multi-test kit is the extremely easy and convenient 5-in-1 test strips. The vast majority of water related problems can be resolved within the parameters of these simple tests. A multi-test kit or 5-in-1 test strip might be the best investment you can make for you and your pool!